Modern Warfare 3 Review

Call of Duty: Modern Warfare 3
Call Of Duty: Modern Warfare 3: 'every bit as ridiculous and exhilarating as ever'.
It's business as usual for Modern Warfare 3 – though whether that's a criticism depends on expectations. Should sequels offer some form of innovation? Or are you one of the tens of millions of players champing at the bit for more of the same?

The single-player campaign provides ammunition for both camps. Set in several major European cities (with the odd African detour) during the third world war, it is once again a five-hour series of linear, over-the-top set pieces at the very limit of credibility.
Even Hollywood couldn't afford this. Players pitch up to one bombed-out landmark after another, blowing up what isn't already destroyed before moving on in search of the villainous Vladimir Makarov. It's as ridiculous and exhilarating as ever, and pleasingly without the occasional sudden leap in difficulty that blighted its predecessors.
Of course, the campaign is but an appetiser to the hundreds of hours that await in the game's multiplayer. Modern Warfare 2's co-operative spec-ops mode returns in expanded form, progress here unlocking weapons for use in the new survival mode, where up to four players team up to take on untold enemies.
On the competitive side, developer Infinity Ward has learned from its Modern Warfare 2 missteps and done much to prevent players holing up in safe havens and just waiting to take shots. There are fewer obvious hiding spots, and the division of the game's signature killstreaks into two categories – one for kills, one to help your team – means both teams have an unmanned aerial vehicle in the air more often than not and are therefore visible on each other's radars. This necessitates constant movement, the more enclosed maps making for a faster pace and a renewed emphasis on gunplay – though there are plenty of new toys to play with too.
These tweaks are subtle enough to please hardcore fans looking for improvements but also significant enough to have a profound effect on how the action pans out for casual players. Essentially more of the same, then, but that's precisely what the developer set out to do – and exactly what all those fans wanted.

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Battlefield 3 review

Battlefield 3
Battlefield 3 ... you won't want to play it alone
For the better part of a year, EA has been hyping Battlefield 3 as the game that will bring down Call Of Duty. This approach has doubtless provided an awareness boost for DICE's military shooter, its advertorial wagon hitched sturdily to the zeitgeist surrounding Activision's mega-selling shooter. "Above and beyond the call," claim the billboard ads that currently clutter major US cities.

Thus, nearly every single CoD: MW3 feature and preview so far has had to address EA's game in some way. The only way you could not be aware of Battlefield 3 is if you have no interest in video games, or if you've been locked in an isolation ward for the past year and a half.
Of course, all of EA's Activision-baiting can't help but impact negatively on Battlefield 3 now it's been released. To wit, there is now the expectation among some gamers, whether fair or not, that Battlefield 3's success depends, to some degree, on it beating CoD at its own game.
This was never going to happen. While there are similarities between the two franchises, they couldn't be more different in the one area most shooters rely on to keep the affections of the faithful tightly in their grasp – the online multiplayer.
With Battlefield, the multiplayer was present and correct long before CoD's sales figures became the brass ring to shoot for. It's not surprising, then, that this mode is Battlefield 3's strongest asset – and is indeed one of the strongest examples of this mode in the medium. DICE has taken what made the franchise great to begin with in the seminal Battlefield 1942 and then refined and polished everything until it gleams with a diamond-tipped edge.
More than any other online multiplayer shooter (with perhaps the exception of MAG), Battlefield 3 makes the player feel like they're engaged in an ongoing ground war.
Arriving in the conflict zone via a spawn point or parachute, players are immediately aware of the size and scope of the battle zones they'll be traversing. They could drop in right in the middle of a gun-battle, or land near a couple of vehicles and have to cross some distance to pick a fight.
The action, when it comes, is eerily realistic; players are advised to take in the contents of their surroundings when the echoing pops of gunfire sound off, as tactics, cover and high ground can all be crucial factors in establishing supremacy in any gun battle.
That said, while reality dictates that the most organised and skilled teams with the best working knowledge of the terrain are more likely to be victorious in Battlefield 3, players aren't a forced into a style of play they don't like.
This isn't CoD, where a fast-paced, close-quarters run-and-gun fragfest is the order of the day. This is the Battlefield experience gone widescreen; it's an open, realistic affair where teamwork is encouraged, vehicles are available and maps are meticulously constructed to allow different styles of play to coexist.
Battlefield 3
The only real rule of thumb in the multiplayer is that of common sense; desert your teammates and run obliviously out in to the open, and you'll find yourself dying and dying and dying some more.
The modes and class systems have received a couple of tweaks and tucks and there's still an RPG element in which players are rewarded with new upgrades, gizmos and promotions.
The principal draw in online, though, has less to do with soldier classes, match types and unlockables, and more to do with creating your own moments of brilliance – either solo or with your teammates – in the combat zone. The sense of freedom and potential for improvisation is the best thing about Battlefield 3.
We haven't been furnished with a PC copy to review, but we can point out a couple of disparities between the console and PC versions from several hands-on previews we've attended. Firstly, up to 64 players can take part in BF3's online wars on the PC, but console owners are limited to 24-man battles.
PC owners will claim that as a rule their platform has the edge over consoles in all games, but with BF3, the difference in quality between PCs and consoles is less pronounced in the multiplayer than it is in the game's campaign, provided players load the HD install available for the Xbox 360.
While the lighting and sound in Battlefield 3 was uniformly excellent across the modes on the modes console copy we played, the campaign experience was frequently marred by visual kinks and bugs.
In the time we spent with the game, we witnessed anomalies such as floating corpses, troops that sprinted at snail's pace and one instance in which our entire platoon entered a combat area by walking through a closed fire-escape door.
EA has told us that it is aware of these glitches and that patches and updates are forthcoming. But for now, we have to note that, due to the fact that Battlefield 3's overall experience puts such a premium on realism, it's alarming how often the game we were sent to review pulls the player out of the proceedings with glitches that break the fourth wall.
Whether or not DICE is working to remedy all of this is beside the point, though, as it won't improve the experience of playing the campaign, which is Battlefield 3's big weakness.
Battlefield 3
It's a short, bland affair shot through with an uninteresting story – which seems bizarre when you consider it's about missing nukes and marines searching for terrorists in the Middle East. There are a couple of note-worthy levels – a gun battle on the streets of Tehran, which escalates to Michael Bay-worthy proportions, and a dogfight in an F-18 are two high points. But for the most part, players will find themselves hurtling down corridors, moving from one uninspired gun-battle to the next.
Perhaps the worst aspect of the campaign, though, is how rigid, scripted and restrictive it feels when compared to the game's multiplayer. There are precious few instances where the open, multi-purpose style of play from the online mode is applicable – or even allowed – in the campaign.
There are also a couple of instances where the game's realistic elements eat into the player's enjoyment of the proceedings. After a while, they may become fed up with being unable to see opponents who are a few metres away due to the amount of dust their firefight has thrown up. This, by the way, doesn't impair the vision of the AI, which at times strikes at the player with laser-guided accuracy, and at others, seems to be unaware of them when they're emptying a clip into their compatriots from close range.
Finally there's the co-op mode, a series of mini-missions whose story runs alongside the single-player campaign. It's a fun, if slightly brief diversion from the other two options. It's less constrictive than the single-player campaign, in that some improvisation is allowed from the two players in how they tackles some missions, but it also contains some of its weaknesses – such as the wonky AI.
So Battlefield 3 feels like three distinctly different experiences offered in one confusing game, which, to be honest, has proven hard to judge on its merits as a package.
Do we praise the game for its incredible multiplayer or mark it down for its woeful campaign? There are those who would posit the opinion that the campaign shouldn't affect the score because most people who buy this game won't play it anyway and instead will spend all their time in the multiplayer.
Then again, the counter argument to this is, why bother with including a campaign at all and instead use the extra disc space to provide more modes, maps, options, weapons and other content for the superb multiplayer?
The answer is, of course, that Battlefield 3 was supposed to bring down CoD, and without a campaign – which seems to be DICE's approximation of a CoD experience – this wouldn't have been possible. This is unfortunate, because the instances in which DICE seem to have tried to beat their rivals at their own game have resulted in Battlefield 3's weakest content.
Where they've ignored their competitor completely and stuck to what they do best, they've created one of the finest experiences in the medium. There's a lesson in that somewhere…

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Sony PS Vita UK release date and price

 Sony PS Vita UK release date and price

Sony’s latest and greatest creation, the Sony PS Vita, has now received a release date and UK price.
Amazon, the online retailer, have outed the Sony PS Vita release date and prices way ahead of the New Year’s Eve Arrival.
The PS Vita has been added as a pre-order item with prices starting at £229.99 for the WiFi only version and £279.99 for the WiFi + 3G version.
The suggested delivery date has not been listed in the UK though, however the US version states that the PS Vita will be available from December 31st.
The Sony PS Vita is set to feature a quad-core ARM Cortex A9 processor as well as a 5-inch OLED touchscreen display sporting both front and rear cameras.
Will you be purchasing the PSP successor? Let us know in the comments section below.

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How to assemble a computer

How to assemble a computer step by step

 

The entire procedure should take 3-4 hours if you have no problems. We'll proceed in stages. Rather than install all of the components in the system at once, I prefer to the bare components necessary and test as we go along. In the first part we'll install the motherboard, floppy drive, RAM, CPU, and video card and test that the system boots and detects the floppy, hard disk, CPU and video. The next stage is to install the CD-ROM and Windows9X. In the last stage, we'll finish by overclocking the system.

Tools and Supplies Required

  • Grounding Strap - This can be purchased from Radio Shack or Compusa for a few dollars.
  • Phillips screw driver
  • One medium sized flat screw driver - Used mostly to help with releasing clips from power connections.
  • 1/4" socket screwdriver - I've found this better to use in most cases than the phillips with the 1/8" hex screws. It keeps the screw driver from slipping and potentially causing damage.
  • Electrical tape - I use black electrician's tape to tie up any lose wires.
  • Bungee straps or Plastic tie wraps - Same as above. I've even used velcro wraps purchased from CompUSA.
  • Cardboard sheets - Cardboard sheets can be used as a working surface. It is safe to use cardboard to rest components that are sensitive to static electricity.
  • Non Conducting 1/8" washers - I use nylon washers purchased from Home Depot. They work great.
Setup the Case
  • Set up your work area - Gather your tools and materials and have them nearby to minimize running around. Make sure you have plenty of lighting and a power socket located nearby. As mentioned above use cardboard on your working surface. This helps to reduce the risk of static discharges to your electrical components.
  • Before you begin read your motherboard manual, case manual, etc. Familiarize yourself with the layout of the board (the 20-pin power, fan connectors, IDE controlers, PCI slot, AGP slot, RAM slots, CPU Slot, etc).
  • Orient your case so that you can work with it comfortably. Lay it on it's side. Not in the upright position. The case should be open and the insides exposed.
  • Never work on your system with the power turned on. Before you touch anything always make sure the power is turned off. (You should leave the PS plugged into the wall socket to keep it grounded, BUT make sure the power supply is turned off.)
  • Punch out any openings in the back of your case to fit your motherboard ports. You may need to use a  plate supplied with the case or motherboard that fits the ports for your motherboard.
  • Attach your grounding strap to your wrist and the clip to the metal chassis of your case.
  • Examine the floor of the case. If you do not have stand-offs you will need to insert them. stand-offs are meta hex screws that screw into the motherboard plate of your case. The motherboard rests on the stand-offs. The stand-offs are usually supplied with your case. Align the stand-offs with the holes on your motherboard. For now just screw the stand-offs in for the holes that align with your mobo. Snug them up but be careful not to over tighten or strip the screws.
  • Examine the cables coming from the power supply to ensure that they are proper length. Make sure the power cables are out of the way temporarily.
Install Motherboard
  • Insert your motherboard into your case. Make sure that your stand-offs are in place. Be careful to ensure that your ports are aligned with the holes you punched out in the back of the case. Don't force anything; the external ports should fit nicely but snug.
  • Take your 1/8" hex screws and put the non-conducting washers on them. Now use them to screw down your motherboard. The screws go into the holes that aligned with your stand-offs. Do not over tighten your screws. You want them to be snug, not crushing your motherboard.
  • We've got the motherboard in!
  • Find your 20-pin power supply cable and connect it.
Install the RAM, Video Card, and CPU.
  • Slot 1 CPU's require mounting brackets to keep them firmly in-place. My brackets came with my motherboard. In my case, I had to first put the mounting brackets in place on my CPU and heatsink combo and then insert the CPU into slot 1. I then had to flip over my mother board and screw the brackets from the bottom. Non-conducting screws were provided with my motherboards.
  • If you don't have a jumperless motherboard you'll need to set the proper jumpers for your CPU multiplier and bus speed. Read your motherboard manual carefully before attempting this. It is important that you use the correct settings or you could potentially damage your CPU or motherboard. If you have a jumperless motherboard you will do this in the BIOS later on.
  • Next we'll install the memory. SDRAM memory goes straight into your DIMM slots. Mine has clamps that lock into place once the memory is firmly seated. Consult your motherboard manual for types of memory and configurations for your system.

  • Place your graphics card in the PCI or AGP slot. Remove any plates covering the the slots on the back of the case. Screw down the card's bracket to the case. Connect the SVGA cable to the monitor.

Install the Floppy Drive
  • Select the 3.5" floppy drive bay and install the drive. My case came with mounting brackets which are screwed to the sides of the drive. The drive is then slid into place and locked with clips. This is a nice arrangement that makes for easy installation and removal.
  • Examine the floppy disk controller on the motherboard for the position of pin 1.
  • You should also have a 34-pin floppy cable. Note the twist in the cable located between two of the connectors. The connector located next to the twist in the cable should be then end that goes into the floppy drive. The connector on the other end goes into your floppy disk controller on the motherboard. Be sure to align the red strip on the cable with pin 1 on both the drive and the floppy controller.
  • Connect the power to your floppy drive.
Power On and Test
  • Now we're ready to try a power on test to detect the CPU and floppy.
  • Turn your computer on and enter the BIOS. Hit the "Delete" key as the system is booting.
  • Once in your BIOS make sure that the floppy drive is selected as a bootable device.
  • If you have a jumperless motherboard you will now need to select the proper CPU setting. On the ABIT VA6 this is done in CPU Soft Menu. 
  • Our PIII 500E works on a 100MHz front side bus with a multiplier of 5.0. Later on we will increase the FSB setting to overclock the system but for now leave it at 100MHz.
  • You may also need to make sure that your BIOS has set your floppy drive to bootable. Read your manual to find the proper settings.
  • Save your BIOS settings to the CMOS and exit.
  • Your system should reboot and detect the floppy drive. If it doesn't. Power down and go back over your settings. Make sure your cables are firmly connected and correct pin 1 alignment.
  • Insert you boot diskette into the floppy drive and test again.
  • If you succeeded to this point you should be able to boot into DOS and see your a: drive.
Install Hard Disk
  • Again you should have mounting brackets that came with your drive and/or your case. Connect the IDE cable to controller one on your motherboard. Make sure that the red strip on the able is aligned with pin 1 on both the drive and controller. Connect the power. Make sure that your drive has the Master jumper pins set. Consult your drive's documentation if you don't know how the jumper pins should be set.

  • Once your drive is installed we're ready to boot the system again.
  • Turn the system on.
  • Enter your BIOS and make sure the drive is selected. Usually, auto detect should be enabled for the IDE controller. I had to enter the "Detect Hard" drive on my BIOS. Save your settings on exit.
  • Insert the installation diskette that came with your hard drive.
  • Reboot your system.
  • The drive software should partition your disk and create a boot sector. You will need to have your operating system's boot floppy handy. Once the hard disk drivers are installed the system should be rebooted. Remove any floppies from the drive. 
  • If installation disk doesn't automatically partition and format your drive you can do this manually with the fdisk and format commands.
  • Power down the system.
Install CD-ROM
  • Now we'll need to install the CD-ROM before you can install Windows.
  • You're CD-ROM should come with a diskette containing the DOS drivers. It should also (if you're lucky) provide you with the installation setup to do this automatically. If  it doesn't you can do it manually if you have the right drivers. You'll need to modify the config.sys and autoexec.cfg files to load the drivers and run the MSCDEX.EXE program.
    Your config.sys should contain a line similar to the following: REM - other gump in your config.sys goes here - Device=C:\ATAPI_CD.SYS  /D:OEMCD001 Autoexec should have the following line:
Device=C:\MSCDEX.EXE /D:MSCD001
 
Install the Operating System
  • Once you have completed installation of the drivers reboot and test to see that your drive is detected. If successful you can now begin installation of Windows9X.
  • After your system has booted and your CD-ROM is working you can run the Windows9X setup installation procedure. 'cd' to the CD-ROM drive and run setup.exe.
  • Windows will load and reboot and begin detecting the new hardware devices on your system. This includes the graphics card. You should have your graphics card's drivers handy as Windows will prompt you for them.
  • If you're running Windows 95a you may also have a problem with the 440LX or 440BX chipsets. Hopefully, your motherboard manufacturer provide the patches to your operating system for these new chipsets. Otherwise, Windows 95 will run in compatibility mode. Everything will still work but your PCI bridge will not be working correctly. If you do not have the patches for these chipsets first see if you can obtain these from the vendor you purchased your motherboard from, motherboard manufacturer or Intel. I downloaded mine from Intel and they worked fine.
Start Having Fun!
  • At this point you should have a functioning system and can begin installation of your sound card and modem. I will not go into any further detail here as this is a fairly straight forward process. I recommend installing them one-at-a-time. Install the hardware and drivers for one before proceeding to the next.
  • I hope this guide proved to be of some small help to you. Enjoy your new system!

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